Greek Islands > Ionian Islands > Paxos island

Paxos island

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Paxos is a charming little island, easily traveled in a few days with a car or motorbike (both of which can be rented on the island). The architecture of the three main towns, Gaios, Laka, and Logos, exhibit the typical Ionian style with colorful two and three-story homes lining the promenades, while the rural landscape is filled with low stone houses surrounded by lush green gardens.

As all the Eptanisa (7 Ionian islands) Paxos has its emblem - in this case the trident. It is said that the god Poseidon, ruler of the seas, wishing to create a beautiful, peaceful island far away from the other gods and men, and intending to live there with his beloved Amfitriti, struck the southern part of Corfu hard and Paxos was formed. With the blow, however, he lost his trident which the Paxiots later found and made their emblem.

It is also said that while traveling once from Corfu to Lefkas, Poseidon got tired and decided to make another stopover between the two islands. He struck mightily with his trident and like a mythical monster, the island of Paxos emerged through the foaming waves. The dolphins, seals, seagulls and other seabirds assembled and the place filled with life. He set his trident at the highest point, Megali Vigla at St. Isavros (250 metres), to mark the divine abode. Much later a few shepherds gathered, forming the island's first colonizing nucleus.

Ancient history

The island has pursued a course through history which parallels that of Corfu. At the side of the larger island it fought against both pirate raids and Turkish attacks. Real progress, however, only began with the occupation by the Venetians in 1386.

Corfu was colonized by Corinth in 734 BCE, but developed into a powerful State, which threatened the mother city. A naval victory by the Corinthians over the Corcyraeans in the Sivota Islands (probably round the mouth of the River Kalamas, which is now silted up) was a major factor in the outbreak of the Peloponnesian War. In 229 BCE the island was captured by Rome, and when the Empire was finally split in two in 395 became part of the Byzantine Empire.

Medieval

The castle of St. Nicholas was built in 1453 and although ruined today it still stands guard proudly over the island, awing the visitor with its presence and impressing with its simplicity and imposing lines, its cannon and the ports through which they were fired. A second castle was built at about the same time: that of Dialetos, at Babaka near Lakka, close to the famous Harami beach, but neglect has ensured that no traces of it can be seen today.

Once the security of the island had been established, the attention of the inhabitants turned to increasing the island's production of olives. The extent of their achievement, the results of their sweat and toil in these distant years, can be admired today. The whole island is an endless olive grove, and the minute amounts of soil are retained by retaining walls - thousands of metres of wall. There are some two hundred and fifty thousand olive trees on the island, and the 152 ruined and primitive olive-presses remind the visitor of the hive of work and activity that this island once was.

In 1797, after 411 years of Venetian occupation, Paxi was handed over to the French revolutionary government. French occupation initially lasted only 2 years, and a successful joint Russian -Turkish siege in 1799 led to the proclamation of a "Septinsular Republic" and a Constitution (1800). The fledgling republic was under the protectorate of Turkey and Russia. But this Greek state was to exist for only seven years. In accordance with the secret articles of the Treaty of Tilsit (July 8, 1807), the Ionian Islands were returned to French control, which lasted until 1814. During the Napoleonic Wars, which covered this period, the island was under English blockade, and serious shortages of food developed. This caused the Paxiots to rebel, in 1810, and kill the island's Commander, Count Dimakis Makris, and Laskaris Grammatikos and to injure a number of others. The French, however, managed to put down the rising in a few days and the ring-leaders were severely punished. Seven of them were shot, in 1811, in Corfu Castle, many were imprisoned and still more islanders were forced to emigrate. In 1814, however, the English fleet under Captain (later Sir Richard) Church, with the aid of the Greek freedom fighter Theodoros Kolokotronis, captured the castle and overcame the guard without a shot being fired.

In 1817, a new Constitution was signed, and the "United State of the Ionian Islands" came into being under British protectorate. The British Lord High Commissioner held supreme authority in the islands until 1854. when Paxi and the the rest of the group were formally amalgamated with Greece.

From Yiannis Doikas out-of-print book "Paxos, History, Folklore, Culture

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	Paxos island today
	Gaios, the capital of Paxos, is a charming port town and spreads itself along the waterfront. You enter Gaios from a northerly direction passing two small islands, the first at the mouth of Gaios harbour is called Panayia (Virgin Mary) on which there is a splendid white monastery. On the 15th August, Assumption Day the gates of the monastery are open and everyone travels across by boat to the monastery to pay homage. The other, St Nicholas Island, forms a natural breakwater which leads to the picturesque inlet of Gaios harbour. On St Nicholas island there are two small churches St Nicholas and St Ioannis and an old Venetian fort built in 1423 which for many years protected the area. Gaios square is a very good place to soak up the atmosphere of this bustling capital. There are a number of taverns around the square and the lanes that lead off are lined with local shops, cafe bars, more taverns and gift shops. In the centre of the square is the church of St Apostoli. Gaios harbour and the approaching inlet is very safe for overnight mooring for all types of boats. Water and fuel vehicles patrol on a daily basis. Payment for mooring and regulations can be obtained from the Port Authorities Tel. 00 30 6620 32259. Sightseeing The castle of St Nicholas, on the islet bearing the same name, after obtaining a permit from the Municipality. Tel.: 32100. The Monastery of Panayia, on the islet The Church of Agioi Apostoli. It is located behind the bus stop. The Early Christian church of Agia Marina, in Porto of Ozias, at the end of the beach road, before the turn for Moggonissi. The Museum of Paxos. From 11:00 to 13:00 and from 19:30 to 22:30. Tel.: 32566. To the cistern of Agioi Apostoli, on the right side of the church. The mill of Lessianitis, in Tranakatika. The cliff of Mousmouli, from Tranakatika. The Ostries, for the view of Avlaki and the sunset (taking the road to the right of Agia Paraskevi in Bogdanatika). The beaches: Kloni Gouli, Kamini, Kaki Lagada. Take the road past the New Port and make a right at the intersection for Platanos and Loggos.

Access to Paxos

There is no airport on this small island, the closest is on Corfu island. You may access Paxos only by boat (ferry or hydrofoil) from Corfu island or from the town of Parga (across the strait, on Epirus mainland).

Paxos hotels

Visit this page to find more about Paxos hotels or, if you like me to assist you with your choice, please send me an e-mail with your questions and enquiries. I will be glad to reply and assist you, wherever I possibly can.