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Greek Islands
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 A mini-paradise, Koufonisi is a place hard to
forget. One of the most beautiful Greek islands, with a
surprisingly cosmopolitan atmosphere despite the fact that
the island is only 4 sq. km.
It is a quiet island, since it practically has no traffic,
but still there are lovely beaches and an elegant nightlife
for a mature audience.
The locals here have always lived off fishing, but the
incomes from tourism are slowly increasing, and for this
reason they do their best to renovate and freshen up the
buildings and streets before every summer. |
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Koufonisia history
It is known that Koufonisi was inhabited from
early-recorded history. A series of tombs and artifacts have been found on
the island dating from the Early Cycladic, Hellenistic and Roman periods.
Unfortunately these sites were easy prey for tomb-robbers and little can
be understood about the life and history of early Koufonisi.
During the Middle Ages and up to Greek statehood, the Cyclades were fought
over by the Byzantine Empire, the Ottomans, the Venetians and Moors. Some
traces of the Moors, a stone with Arabic inscriptions, have been found on
Kato Koufonisi (known in the Middle Ages as Pira).
In the later years of the Ottoman Empire during the 18th century, with the
weakening of central authority the Small Cyclades became both preying
grounds and refuge for pirates or water-borne bandits. Whilst pirates
roamed the Aegean since the Greek-Persian wars, it was from these years
that the name "Koufonisi"
(it was known as Fakoussa [Fakoussa] before)
appears in the written language. A poem written by an Amorgos resident (c
1824) in which he damns those Koufonisi pirates. The presence of
innumerable caverns and coves made it easy for the small boats to be
hidden from whatever authority was hunting them.
In the intervening years, between the abandonment of the Turks and the
establishment of Greek government, Koufonisi with Keros and other small
islands were settled mainly by people from Amorgos, under the authority of
the Monastery of Hozoviotissa of Amorgos. The monastery would lease the
lands to the peasants who in exchange would give tribute in agricultural
goods to the monks. Eventually the land passed to the islanders themselves
who used it as their only source of livelihood.
During World War II, unlike other parts of Greece, the Small Cyclades were
considered too small and insignificant to have a permanent occupying
garrison by either the Germans or the Italians. When the Italians
dominated the Aegean they would merely come from Naxos to confiscate what
little food the islanders had, making their living very precarious, but on
the whole were considered by the Koufonisiotes as a gentle occupying army.
When Italy surrendered in 1943 and turned against it's former ally, the
Germans would occasionally come to search the island for fleeing Italian
soldiers, both on Ano and Kato Koufonisi, but never stayed long.
With the exception of a German war plane that crash landed close to the
present day summer port and the occasional food confiscation, Koufonisi
therefore knew little of the ravages of war. The horrors of war one day
washed on shore tens of bodies of Italians who were massacred by the
Germans in Amorgos by the thousands. Their bodies were promptly buried by
the islanders to the east of the village.
After World War II and the widespread use of artificial refrigeration (ice
machines) and cheap motorized boats, the islanders started turning to the
sea as a source of income. Quite simply they could easily bring their fish
(stored in the ice) to Naxos or Athens, which was a far more desirable
product than beans or grain. Soon the settlements on Kato Koufonisi were
abandoned as the peasants became more and more fishermen and moved to Ano
Koufonisi, which even though it lacked fresh water, was blessed by good
harbors. Since the land, even of Kato Koufonisi, was so unproductive, they
took to fishing much more readily than the other islands of the Small
Cyclades, which until tourism came, were very much agricultural. |
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Koufonisia today |
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Ano Koufonisi (Ano Koufonisi or Upper Koufonisi) is
the smallest and yet the most populated island of the Little Cyclades..
Closely surrounded by its deserted neighbors, there are few signs of an
outside world that could intrude on life here. The nearby islands are all
uninhabited and serve as the Koufonisiotes
(Koufonisiotes or inhabitants of Koufonisi) backyard.
Kato Koufonisi (Kato Koufonisi or Lower Koufonisi), the sister island a
mere 200m southwest, was used for grazing, beekeeping and agriculture.
Mysterious Keros dominates the southern horizon and is used only by one or two
Koufonisiotes. In between is Glaronisi (Ghlaronisi or
Sea-gull Island) which with its near perfect profile of a sea-gull, adds a
humorous tone to the whole scenery.
Situated to the south east of its more illustrious neighbour Naxos,
Koufonissia are two islands separated by a 200 metres straight. The upper,
populated island is one of the smallest islands in the Cyclades with an area of
just 3.5 square kms. and a population of 284. With the largest fleet in Greece
in direct proportion to the population, fishing is the main industry on the
island.
In spite of its size, Koufonissia does have several tavernas and cafes
together with some local art shops and a post office. We found the meals in the
local hostelries to be of a high standard, with fish in plentiful supply
courtesy of the home fleet. There is no possibility of car or bike hire as the
only asphalted roads, are in and around the village. Anyhow, the island is small
enough to walk around in one morning. Beaches are the big plus on Koufonissia.
There are 4 really superb stretches of sand within a thirty minute walk of the
village.
The environment of
Koufonisi is strongly shaped by the strong sun and wind, lack of water,
rocky terrain and small size of the island; which combined strongly reduce
plant growth, which in turn can not support a large animal population. The
bare rocks, hard and sharp under the naked foot, give the impression of a
powerful nature, but it is a very fragile environment.
The returning tourists of
Koufonisi come here for the simple natural beauty and clear waters of the
island. Actually, of the two islands, since many take advantage of the
water ferry service to reach Kato Koufonisi for the day.
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If you like me to assist you with
your holiday choice in the Cyclades, please
send me an e-mail with your questions and enquiries. I will be glad to reply and
assist you, wherever I possibly can. |
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