Cruizing and Boozing: a sailing chronicle

8th October, Saturday, Mourtos - Gouvia Marina (Corfu)

We left Mourtos at 0915 hrs with nice memories of the Steak taverna a couple of hundred meters off the quay, and the usual mourning over not being able to catch any of the mythological fish
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Side note: He, he -like you had any chance for that
---------------------------------------------------------------------

There was a NE3 wind, of disappointing strength, and we sailed and motored until about 1420 hrs, when rounding the Old Fort at Corfu Town. A ferry made disapproving noises with its hooter which prompted as to take in the sails and endeavoured to motor -to find the morse cables of the throttle mechanism jammed. Brute force won the day and we finally got it in gear. This has been noted to our faults list and needs attention. To add to our concerns it started to rain -and rained all the way to the Marina at Gouvia at 1358 hrs, a journey of 24 nm.

We first topped up with fuel at the fuel berth (€48 so far). We tied up at 1421 hrs but had to move again at 1600hrs, as a Greek boat owner seemed to object to our tying up at his alleged reserved berth. Mentioning Alex only made him more irate!! We ended up at the very outside pontoon next to the seaplane berth. These are new turboprop seaplanes which run a service to Paxos and Ioannina. They had planned a service up and down the whole length but run into the usual Greek officialdom, bent politicians, etc and so far, have had to restrict their service to Corfu/Paxos/Ioannina -a great pity, as their planned service is very much needed. Plans were also afoot to connect Italy.

That night Ian & Uta Binnie joined us, after flying in from Scotland via Athens, at Takis Taverna, in Kontokali. Dinner was followed by a night cap at Arches Bar, where Steve and Ricky were entertained to some wonderful stories by Stavros -the landlord, as to his marvellous fishing exploits -he even offered to lend them some "proper gear"!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Side note: What a waste of good gear
---------------------------------------------------------------------

9th October, Sunday, Agni Bay (Corfu)

On the Sunday, Alex could not join us, as he had some turn-rounds to do, so the plan was to do a day sail to Agni Bay, north of Gouvia, for a visit to Perikles Taverna for lunch.

We checked the kedge anchor, as we were not sure if Perikles had done any work on his fairly rickety pontoon, and whether it would accept a stern-to tie up. We left Gouvia at 1057 hrs with no wind to speak of, having paid Marina fees of € 43, which seemed expensive (more on this later). We arrived at Agni at 1319 hrs, having done a little abortive fishing en route. It was alleged that there were shoals of mullet all around the boat at one stage -but we had nothing to prove that. It could have been a mirage! The pontoon had, indeed, been upgraded and we berthed stern-to.

There were quite a lot of yachts in the bay, mostly anchored. Some of the antics of both flotilla and bareboat charter vessels had to be seen to be believed. Steve went for a swim to try and unblock the aft heads, which only worked intermittently, by shoving the handle of our fly swatter up the loo exit pipe. It appeared to cure the problem -until the next day when it failed again. It turned out that it was a well known that "sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't". Whether it was a problem associated with the list to port is unconfirmed.

We got a great welcome from Perikles, as usual, and we had a magnificent lunch, mostly of a range of starters. We left again at 1555 hrs and got a couple of hours sailing in as we headed for the NAOK Marina at the base of the Old Fort. This was Alex's idea, as he intended to meet us there that evening after finishing his work.

We tried to berth at NAOK Marina but all the lazy lines were broken and it would have been stupid to anchor with a load of broken chains, etc on the floor of the marina. In any case, it did not look too inviting so we decided to go back to Gouvia, where we arrived at 1934 hrs, back in our old berth by the seaplanes. A distance of 23 nm. Not bad when it should be noted that Gouvia/Agni is 5 nm! Ian docked the boat, for his first experience of a boat which "walked to port" in reverse, until there was a bit of speed. It was the same with the Bavaria 44 we had two years previous.

10th October, Monday, Gouvia Marina - Sayiada (Epirus, mainland)

We dined at the Navigators, much to Alex's disgust as it is definitely not his favourite eating place. However, a few pina coladas at Arches soon wiped away the gloom, plus some more fishing tales from Stavros -the bar tender. The plan was that we should head towards some "fishing grounds" (!!!) near the Albanian border, which were allegedly teeming with fish, and then go to Sayada, which I had never visited before but was a favourite week-end haunt for Corfiots with boats. It had a reputation for having a very narrow entrance and was very shallow, albeit with a sandy bottom but with one rock right in the centre!!

Whilst waiting for Alex, who was late, we changed the gas bottle and obtained a new one from the marina supermarket, along with the top up of the larded. Went to pay the berthing fee to find that we had paid for two days before (that's why we thought it was expensive) and therefore there was nothing to pay.

Alex arrived eventually, at 1216 hrs and we left at 1219 hrs to a SE wind of about force 4, gusting 5 (but not very often). Ian and Uta were given a hand and put the boat through its paces in no uncertain terms. The contents of the chart table ended up all over the saloon, Peter fell out of his lower bank and then had his holdall, and all its contents on top of him.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Side note: Thank you Peter for "preventing" my lap top from being damaged, it was very kind of you
---------------------------------------------------------------------

The boat sailed well, albeit with a marked lean, which spilled a tremendous amount of wind. We should have had a dozen antipodean gorillas sitting on the windward rail with their legs over the side to get the boat upright to a wind-efficient angle -but there were in short supply.

Fishing went by the board, as any fish would have to break the fish speed record to catch the lures we trailed. We sailed at this frenetic pace for a couple of hours and then eased up to skirt the sandbanks which were in abundance around the approaches to Sayada. The sailing had mostly been in front of Corfu Town and we soon made the short distance to Sayiada. We took the sails down at about 1635 and motored with the main, arriving at 1750 hrs. One thing we could have done with was to tighten up the luff on the main, but there was no winch on the mast and no spare block at the base of the mast. 23 nm done in the day.

The entrance was, indeed, very narrow and we left Alex use his previous experience to do the berthing. After three attempts we got tied up but even then were actually sitting on the sand. Another yacht arrived with a young Israeli crew and had the same problems. A very large German, cutter-rigged ketch then arrived with a very well-drilled crew and tied up outside the harbour wall.

Our dinner that night was superb, with locally caught prawns and sardines, the latter doubtless escapees from the many local fish farms.

11th October, Tuesday, Sayiada - Mourtos

The next morning we needed some fresh bread and one or two other bits and pieces and set off for the village shops, supposedly a kilometre away. It turned out to be a "Greek" kilometre and two villages away!!

When we got back Steve and Ricky decided to catch crabs -which they did! They were, however, too small to eat, and were thrown back into the sea. This episode amused three coach loads of school children, who were out on a day trip to learn goodness knows what. But they seemed to be enjoying themselves from the noise they kicked up..
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Side note: Of course children were amused, since they had never seen someone trying to catch crabs using salami as bate. Believe it or not, our great "fishermen" gang consumpted half a kilo of nice salami in order to catch 3 tiny crabs of about 3 grams each.
---------------------------------------------------------------------

We finally left Sayiada at 1150 hrs, destination Mourtos, to a forecast of NNE 3/4. We got the sails up at 1202 hrs with the winds ESE 3 (so much for Greek forecasts!)

By 1330 hrs we had the genoa down again. The wind had dropped to almost zero. What there was came from the SW. We had, however, run out of beer, so it was fairly important to reach Mourtos quickly! The crew had to make do with gin and tonic -with ice and lemon, of course. On the subject of ice it is worth mentioning the efficiency of the very large fridge. I spoke with Kavas company later and they said they had totally rebuilt the fridge over last winter and put in a new freezer unit.

We arrived at Mourtos at 1518 hrs, Ricky doing the berthing honours. This time the harbour was practically empty -unlike on our visit the week before. The season was really beginning to come to an end.

The beer stocks were replenished and we bought a deck broom, having not been supplied with one! Still no sink plugs, anywhere. Alex suggested we eat at Georgos Restaurant on the seafront - which turned out to be a good suggestion.

The journey that day was 19 nm.

12th October, Wednesday, Mourtos - Port Gaios (Paxos Island)

On Wednesday morning we left Mourtos at 1042 hrs destination Gaios, on Paxos Island. Again there was practically no wind. It tride to get up just before mid-day, but it wasn't until about 1300 hrs that we could sail, and only then very slowly. We took the sails down again at 1405 hrs and motored into Gaios. Tied up at 1422 hrs after 15 nm.

We found a taverna up the back streets that had suckling pig on the menu -and very good it was. Afterwards we had pancakes and pina coladas in a small bar on the way back to the boat.

During the afternoon Peter had tried the local Travel Agents to see if he could book his flight back to Zante, from Corfu on the following Tuesday. Not possible from there. Alex, meanwhile had booked a seat on the seaplane to return to Corfu the next day -it had always been his desire to fly that seaplane.

13th October, Thursday, Gaios - Preveza

Alex got up early to catch his seaplane -a novelty for him (getting up early that is)- and was walked down to the harbour entrance by Steve and Ricky, who returned to tell us that the seaplane was NOT flying, as the pilot had fallen off a motorcycle the night before and was not fit to fly. More likely, they only had a couple of passengers, or the pilot had a girlfriend in Gaios -another re-orientation of the truth. Alex was very disappointed and had to take the Flying Dolphin instead -a Russian built jetfoil, with the engines changed.

It was cool and a bit cloudy as we left Gaios at 0830 hrs. We motored past Emerald Bay, on Anti Paxos, but it wasn't emerald as there was no sun. We decided to go to Preveza, instead of Spartakhori and set course accordingly. The sea was very confused and gave the impression of being disturbed by wind, but there was no wind. We finally got the sails up at 1120 hrs, with the wind bang on the nose, and sailed until 1353 hrs, when the wind died again. We found the outer buoys easily this time, with no chop, and tied up stern-to in Preveza t 1648 hrs.

That night we ate at the world famous Sardine Restaurant and were very pleasantly surprised at the reasonable bill, after an excellent meal. The local OTE (the national Greek telecommunications) had obviously just had a union meeting (no doubt about pensions) and took a number of tables near us -with much noise and hearty eating and drinking.

Back to the "in-place" for a nightcap.

14th October, Friday, Preveza to Lefkas

We passed a pretty lazy morning, with Steve and Ricky packing, and we started a bit of sorting and tidying of the boat generally. Steve and Ricky left by taxi at 1250 hrs, bound for Igoumenitsa.

Peter, Ian and Uta left for Lefkas, via the swing bridge, at 1330 hrs, thinking that would give us plenty of time. BUT we made the bridge by the skin of our teeth at 1500 hrs, tying up at Levkas Marina fuel berth at 1527, taking on almost an identical amount to that which we had taken on in Corfu a week earlier. We finally tied up at berth HO3, Ian doing the necessary, at 1548 hrs. The berthing was not easy as this berth is along-side the causeway and the mooring lines of other boats were at right angles to our path, with a cross wind.. Isn't there always!

Base manager, Michael was leaving at 0700 hrs the next day and took the boat over from us that evening. We paid € 30 for the tear in the life ring which had been damaged when we left the berth two weeks earlier. We gave Michael a complete list of all the faults and the deficiencies which had been noted during the fortnight. The trip from Preveza had been 11 nm.

That night we walked around Lefkas Town and finally ate along the harbour front, as opposed to one of the three establishments in the Marina -which turned out to be a wise choice.

14th October, Saturday, Lefkas - Corfu

Michael had arranged a taxi for us at 1000 hrs this morning, which arrived early, and w set off for Igoumenitsa, arriving at 1120 hrs catching the superior model ferry at 1145 hrs. We were met by Alex in Corfu Harbour, when we handed over all the things he had left on the yacht, e.g. his pyjamas, a jacket and a large bag of yacht laundry.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Side note: At least, I had to pack early morning and in a hurry. You've packed in all your pace and still forget your jacket, trousers and Godness knows what else :).
---------------------------------------------------------------------

The original idea had been for Alex and Peter to share the twin forward cabin, but it was really only big enough for two small children, without any luggage. Alex ended up sleeping in the saloon.

We drove to the Cavalieri Hotel and said farewell to Ian and Uta, who were going to spend a day exploring Old Corfu Town, before flying back to Athens and thence, London and Edinburgh. Peter stayed on another three days and helped Alex with the October Newsletter, and a couple of other articles. We also checked out a new Marina construction at Benitses, south of Corfu Town. It should be good when it is finished.

IT IS INTERESTING TO NOTE, DURING OUR TWO WEEKS TRAVELLING

a). the flotilla ethos seems to be changing to bigger boats, stern-to berthing, and a frightening number of "real novices" who had received no training whatsoever.

b). the vast number of Bavaria yachts, both charter and privately owned. Sales of these yachts must have pleased the manufacturers.

And as an addendum:-

1). when in Arches Bar on Saturday evening, Stavros told us that his brother had been fishing not far from Corfu, on the previous week-end, and caught six sea bass, all around a kilo.

2). talking to Marianna, who owns ISA flotilla of yachts -which Alex uses for Almi flotilla clients, and a fishing boat, she told us that she had a marvellous day recently, over near Sayadha, and had caught 30 or 40 fish ranging from 1 to 6 kilos -and sold them all to various local restaurants. These fish farms really must improve their security and prevent all the escaping that must go on!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Side note: I have a feeling Peter, that the above mentioned respectable fishermen DO NOT use salami as bate.
---------------------------------------------------------------------

3). Peter would like to thank the rest of the crew for their kindness in making sure he didn't lift or carry anything, pull ropes or grind winches. Much appreciated.

Plans are afoot to try and organise a trip along the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia next year. Here's hoping!

WEEK 1