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Croatian Cruising Report
by Rod Hodgson |
Croatia is rapidly being hailed as a wonderful place
to charter a yacht. The water is a rich turquoise
blue, it is warm and crystal clear, the weather is
normally warm and sunny throughout the summer and
the distances between the islands are enough for a
sail but still comfortable for those who like to
spend some time ashore. The architecture of the
charming old ports is part Venetian, whilst feeling
fortified and many have a maze of alleyways with
restaurants and bars tucked away. Not only do the
ports offer superb shelter overnight with managed
marinas and town berths, but there are many inlets
affording comfortable anchorages for leisurely
swimming and lunch. Many stay over night, taking a
line to a tree to give added security should the
wind perk up.
We picked up our Beneteau Clipper 393,chartered
through
Yacht Charter Marine based in the UK, in
Trogir, a medieval walled town on an island
connected by a small bridge. Being only 10 minutes
from the Airport (Split - flown to by several
airlines including Easyjet and British Airways) was
extraordinary. We had barely got in the minibus
sent to meet us before we had arrived at the
pontoon. Having gone through the boarding
formalities, we set for Maslinica on the island of
Solta, a couple of hours gentle sail away. The
village was small and charming with a handful of
restaurants and bars. The food was very good, lots
of meat and fish. The local wines (most from Hvar
island) were surprisingly good. Perfect for night
one and we slept stern to, as we did each night,
using the laid bow mooring line, no anchor, no
hassle.
The following morning we felt in need of a bit of
night life in the new 'St Tropez' and headed for
Hvar. The town quay is often full and other than
anchoring the best option is a marina on Pakleni
Otoci, a twenty one islet archipelago immediately
adjacent to Hvar town and only 10 minutes by water
taxi. We found a bay between two of the islet for
lunch that was gorgeous and swam and relaxed. Later
in the afternoon we headed to the marina, with all
the expected services, though unremarkable
otherwise. Having spruced ourselves up, we took the
water taxi and had a superb dinner in one of the
many fashionable and very good restaurants followed
by a bit of late night after dinner drinks in a busy
bar with a DJ.
Day three we sailed to Vis, a three hour trip motor
sailing and had lunch in a little inlet half an hour
from the main town. Vis town is charming and
pleasantly low key after Hvar. There were some
locals who made it special by singing in wonderful
harmonies a lamenting song about lost love while we
finished our supper sitting on the quay. The next
morning we headed out again for Stari Grad, tucked
up a long inlet on the south side of Hvar Island.
Another charming town with a very sheltered quay and
excellent restaurants on the water or in the back
streets. The weather was a little inclement on day
four and we elected to return to Hvar town (20-30
minutes by road) to try another restaurant we had
been unable to get into the last visit. It was well
worth it and we went dancing again!
The next morning we were off bright and early,
heading for Bol on the island of Brac, some distance
away, probably 1.5 hours. It is famous for Zlatni
Rat, a sizable sand spit adjacent. We fuelled and
bought lunch in Bol, stayed briefly at the spit and
then motored up the south coast of Brac to a little
inlet for lunch near our destination that
evening of Milna. Milna, our final port before
Trogir, is again a small, lovely old town with
restaurants near the water.
The final day involved sailing to islands near
Trogir where we went swimming, fishing and lunching
as usual before a brisk sail to back to Trogir. We
were swiftly checked over and settled any monies
before another great meal out. Our plane left the
following morning, but the timings were again easy
due to the proximity of the airport.
Top tips for Croatia: It can be windy so be aware;
the marinas are often full by 4pm so don't be late
unless you wish to anchor; and you are more likely
to hit land above water than below it as there are
very few shallow areas except very close to the
land. |
About the author
Rod Hodgson is a partner of Yacht Charter Marine, a company providing yacht charters in the UK, Mediterranean and the Rest of the World.
yachtchartermarine |
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